Maintenance... 

... is vital to keeping any vehicle working properly. Without regular maintenance, your power will eventually be reduced and fuel economy will suffer, while overall safety is compromised. These vehicles are pretty easy to look after (especially when compared to the latest vehicles, where the manufacturers want to force you to visit the dealership for service).

Diagnosing Common Problems
Common Tools
Setting Basic Engine Timing
Ignition "Tune-Up"
Front Brakes
Rear Shocks
Aiming Headlights
YEARLY Maintenance

Diagnosing Common Problems

Symptoms of HEP problems:

• tach momentarily dips to zero
• car stalls, won't restart, then at some point starts right away with no problems

The HEP is the hall-effect-pickup, the piece under the rotor inside the distributor, that feeds position information to the computer. It's called an HEP because it uses a magnet and a device that detects magnetism. The device uses the "Hall Effect", so named because a man named "Hall" figured out how to detect magnetism electronically.

The Hall Effect sensor is alternately exposed to the magnet and blocked from it using aluminum shutters which spin very close to the device. The danger here is, the device is only sensitive to the magnet at a very small distance, so these rapidly spinning shutters come very close to the hall-effect device. If it TOUCHES either the device or the magnet, you get erroneous signals, and the hall-effect device can be damaged very easily.

If you have a failure in a HEP, don't just replace it. If everything else is fine, that thing should last 100 years. The problem is most often that the shutter plate has come loose, or the shutters themselves are bent. You MUST determine the reason the HEP failed before simply replacing it.

Symptoms of a failing AIS motor

• stop at a light and it takes a LONG time for the engine to return to proper idle speed (note that there IS a built in delay for this of about 3 seconds)
• difficulty starting without pressing the gas pedal
• random incidents of "wild idle" where the engine races and drops for several seconds, then magically appears to work fine

This could be a failing or sticking AIS motor. The Automatic Idle Speed motor is a stepper motor that the computer opens and closes one tiny step at a time. There are many ways they can fail, but most important to know is that they are a brush motor and therefore have a limited lifespan. It is also possible for them to fail in one direction only, so it will open but not close, or close but not open.

Before replacing it, try removing it and cleaning the pintle and passageways in the throttle body that the pintle blocks. Also, you can test it quickly using this procedure:

• Run the engine. Remove the power brake vacuum line or otherwise cause a massive vacuum leak. The engine will race.
• Within about 5 seconds, the engine should slow (but probably will not return to normal idle). If not, either the AIS motor is faulty or the wiring is questionable. This tests the "close" function of the AIS motor.
• With the engine still running, plug your vacuum leak or reattach the power brake vacuum line. The engine will almost die out but quickly come back. If it dies, either the AIS motor is faulty or the wiring is questionable. This tests the "open" function of the AIS motor.

Common Tools

Tools are expensive. You want to have a decent set of tools for performing routine maintenance and emergency repairs, but what does that include?

There is NO economy in buying cheap tools. They break. The don't fit properly. Get good tools... they will last your lifetime. My personal preference is Craftsman tools from Sears. If you break one, it will be replaced for free at any Sears store, even without a receipt.

Almost every nut and bolt in a 2.2 equipped car will be metric. You may never need anything other than metric sockets and wrenches, but there are a few strange exceptions. Taillights in a Daytona, for example, use 3/8" nuts.

1. A good mixed 3/8" drive socket set, in at least the $50-$100 range.
2. A rack of deep 3/8" drive sockets.
3. For heavy stuff, a 1/2" drive ratchet, with a rack of sockets.
4. A complete screwdriver set, including Torx. Also, crankshaft pulleys use a 10mm external Torx bit.
5. Pliers, especially needle nose.
6. Vise Grips - the most useful single tool ever invented, next to:
7. Hammer.
8. Torque Wrench. The good one, please, one that clicks when you reach the specified torque.
9. A set of Allen keys. Get one big enough for the thermostat housing, too.
10. A rack of wrenches. Just from 8 to 17mm should be enough to start.

You will need other tools from time to time, but with the above set you can do almost any task required. Tools are on sale so often that it makes sense to stock up when they are cheap. Almost every week, Sears has something on sale, either a set or screwdrivers or open stock sockets or pliers or whatever. Also keep silicone seal, electrical, and cloth tape lying around, as well as some zip ties.

Setting Basic Engine Timing

The computer sets engine timing based on temperature, mixture, detection of engine pre-detonation, and other factors. However, the computer requires that the initial physical timing is set to a predetermined setting, from which variation will begin.

1. Start with a warm engine. Idle to operating temperature if required. Ensure that the idle speed is within specifications, otherwise timing information will be wrong.
2. Disconnect the "coolant temperature sensor", which is attached to the head at the thermostat housing / water box. This forces the computer to stop changing the timing. NOTE that the fan will switch on, so use appropriate caution.
3. Connect your timing light, using spark plug wire number 1 (farthest passenger side).
4. Shine your timing light DOWN from the top of the engine. The timing mark will be visible on the flywheel, and it lines up to degree markings cast onto the transmission housing.
5. If the timing needs adjustment, loosen the distributor hold-down bolt, underneath the distributor. Do not loosen excessively, you want a bit of friction. Be careful of the fan. This will be 13mm.
6. Turn the distributor to change timing. Small amounts of motion make big changes. Be careful to avoid touching the ignition wires too much, you CAN get a jolt from them.
7. Tighten down the distributor hold-down bolt (not too much!), and verify timing while the engine is still running.
8. Turn off the engine, reconnect the coolant temperature sensor, and remove the timing light.

Note that when the coolant temperature sensor is connected, the timing will jump all over. This is normal.

Ignition "Tune-Up"

Don't pay inflated prices for a "tune-up", do it yourself. Also, do it regularly, like yearly or twice per year. So much of the engine control is handled by the computer that it is unlikely you will need $100 tune-ups or engine diagnostic equipment.

1. Replace the distributor cap. Ignition wires do not pull out, you must remove the cap and unclip them from inside. The method for this should be obvious once everything is apart. Ensure that the replacement is good quality, and has a strong spring action on the center carbon "button" which contacts the ignition rotor. This is the part that wears out on a distributor cap. Replace the wires one at a time, they must go to the same places on the new cap.
2. Replace the ignition rotor. Ensure that the replacement is good quality, never buy the cheapest. The difference is usually only a dollar. NOTE that there is an arrow on the distributor shaft, and the rotor only goes on one way. Don't force it!
3. Replace spark plugs. Do not use expensive specialty plugs, use basic Champion or NGK plugs. Stock plugs are RN12YC, but I've had good luck with RN11YC plugs. If you are running hot, or higher boost levels, use RN9YC. NEVER use Bosch Platinum plugs in these turbo motors... they DO break early. Gap the plugs to spec, usually 0.035"
4. CHECK the ignition wires. Check for wear. Check for pinholes at the boots. Do not use cheap wires. Do not replace wires that work if there are no problems. Since Mopar Performance discontinued their ignition wires, find a performance 8mm style such as Taylor to replace existing wire sets. Route ignition wires and use "looms" so they do not touch each other or the engine.
5. CHECK the hall-effect pickup underneath the rotor in the distributor. Ensure that there are no scuff marks on either the sensor or the shutter plate that spins within. If there is scuffing, carefully bend the vanes to prevent further damage. Note that the shutter plate is not sold separately, if you break it you will have to find a new distributor assembly. If the shutter is loose, epoxy it solidly into place.
6. CHECK basic timing.

This procedure will eliminate ignition problems, since you replace all wear parts. Note that ignition problems can be diagnosed as anything from transmission to turbo to computer, so eliminate the inexpensive and simple things first. Badly misfiring engines can destroy the catalytic converter (if you still have one ;), cause overheating, dramatically reduce fuel economy, and rob power.

Front Brakes

Brakes are important. Many people think they're mysterious and complicated, but they aren't. On these cars they are more simple than on any other.

Before performing the brake job, ensure that you have fresh brake pads. Make sure that the brake pads in your hand match the ones in the car. DO NOT BUY Long-life brake pads. Don't get lifetime warranties. Those types of pads are fine for grampa's Buick, but are terrible for performance and fade. If there is any scoring, scuffing, or warping on either rotor, get two new ones. They should be about $15 US each, a small expense.

1. Jack up the car, and put jackstands under it. NEVER work under a car being supported by a jack. Remove the tires.
2. Using a large, strong screwdriver, pry the brake pads apart. Don't scratch or bend the rotor while doing this (unless you're replacing it). You'll find that there's a slot in the caliper to make this easier. Push the pads all the way apart. DON'T RUSH, as you do this the fluid from the caliper is being forced back to the master cylinder. Use steady even pressure.
3. Remove any springs or clips that might be there. NOTE how they are attached.
4. Unbolt the caliper and lift the caliper off the rotor.
5. Check that the caliper guide pin hasn't corroded and swollen into its bushing. If this happens, you should replace both the pin and the bushing, otherwise you will get one pad wearing quicker than the other.
6. Replace the pads. Goop up the parts that touch with anti-squeal compound.
7. Replace the rotor if required.
8. Slide the caliper back in place like it was.
9. Tighten the bolt to only 30 ft-pounds... that's not really tight!
10. Replace springs as required. These stop squeals and rattles, so you want them.
11. If you have been topping up the brake fluid level as the pads wore, you may now have too much fluid in there. Check it.

NEVER move your car after doing brakes without first ensuring that you have a firm brake pedal. You may need to pump the brakes several times before you get a firm pedal, since the act of pushing the pads apart has pushed brake fluid out of the piston.

It is normal for brakes to squeal for the first few miles. You should drive easy during this time to allow the pads to "set-in" to the rotors. In the event that squeal is still excessive after break-in, you may need to get new anti-rattle springs, or use more anti-squeal compound.

Replacing the Rear Shocks

This is so easy, you may be surprised.

1. With the car on the ground, remove the bottom bolt.
2. Jack up the car with the axle, not the frame. Remove the tire.
3. Using TWO ratchets, or a wrench and a socket, remove the top bolt.
4. Replace the shock, and reverse the procedure to install.

Aiming your Headlights

Too many people drive around with their headlights illuminating the sky, or the ground. When you replace a headlight, you MUST aim it properly, or there is no point in having it. This assumes that you just replaced a single light, and that the other was already aimed reasonably well.

1. Park the car on a flat level surface, like a driveway, facing a wall, or a garage door. The vehicle should be about 10 feet away.
2. Measure the height above the ground that the good light hits the wall.
3. Turn the up-down adjuster on the replacement so it matches this height.
4. Measure the distance between the headlights.
5. Measure the distance between where the lights hit the wall.
6. Turn the left-right adjuster on the replacement so these are the same distance.

That's it. You may need to tweak the adjustment after a drive. Remember that the normal projection of low-beams is slightly to the right, hitting the ground about 20-30 feet ahead of the car. The normal adjustment of high beams is straight ahead, hitting the ground at least 50-60 feet ahead of the car.

Regular Maintenance Routine

If you drive your car hard, you don't necessarily do it harm. Certain parts will become worn, and should be considered as supplies, just like oil and gas. After all, no car will run forever without being looked after. The reason aircraft last 30+ years is their rigorous maintenance schedule.

1. Brake Pads - good metallic, NOT lifetime. NEVER get lifetime brake pads. They fade, don't work well when wet, and squeal more. Replace them all every year. Spring is good for this. Don't even bother turning rotors. If they are worn or grooved, replace them. They are very inexpensive nowadays.
2. Wiper Blades - these are VERY cheap. Put summer ones on in spring, and winter ones in fall. Very cheap insurance for being able to see. And to make things even better, don't use them. Apply Rain-X every month. In the most pouring rain, you may not even need your wipers when you have Rain-X. Ice and snow just falls off the windows in the winter.
3. Coolant - mix up fresh coolant and replace the old every year. This is because over time your coolant deteriorates, even though it looks perfect. Again, cheap insurance for your rad, heater core, and engine. Beware of "long life" coolant. There are serious questions about how good it is in our cars. Spring or fall are good times for this. And please replace any coolant hoses that are thin or bulging. They WILL fail at the worst possible time. Same with belts.
4. Bulbs - every time you can see your car in a reflective window, check the light bulbs. Keep all your bulbs working... a nice car with a missing bulb looks tacky. Replace them in pairs so they are all the same color, too.
5. Shocks, Struts - You know the drill... even aside from handling issues, when your car bounces too much or skitters sideways on a bump, it's time to look at new dampers.