Modifications... 

Since 1987 when it was brand shiny new, I've added and changed things a little beyond what the factory intended. Supposedly, the only options I did not get with my Shelby Z were leather and t-tops. The car I test drove with t-tops was already rattling and leaking, and the leather seats I found to be less than what I wanted. I slid around on them in corners, and didn't like that.

There were several options offered for other cars, other Daytonas and Lebarons (which shared the interior with the Daytona) that I wanted. So, in addition to the options I DID get with the car (power windows, power locks, A/C, etc.) I've also added some other factory Chrysler pieces that in most cases just plugged right in. I've become a regular at a few wreckers in my area.

Some of these things may seem totally trivial to pure racers, but this is my daily driver. Adding a pound to the car to get creature comfort is good in my eyes.

1) Factory Cruise Control. In 1987, you could not get factory cruise in the Shelby Z. This was because the lower intercooler hose interfered with the cruise module bracket. Rather than change the bracket, they simply deleted the option. In 1988 they got their act together and changed the bracket. All I had to do was get: under-hood actuator, wiring harness, vacuum source, turn signal with cruise switches, brake light switch with cruise disconnect wiring. I then wired it into the car as described in the factory wiring diagrams. The logic for cruise control is in the computer. It works perfectly. I also added a vacuum reservoir ($10 new), which keeps the cruise working even when going up a long hill when no vacuum is available for it.

2) Navigator. Nice module in the dash that displays date and time, mileage, fuel used, range, etc. Get one and plug it in... the connector is already there and wired up in almost all Daytonas. Sometimes you have to dig around a bit to find it, often it's way over to the passenger side.

3) Overhead console. I got this one from a Lebaron GTS. It's wider than the Daytona one, and I had to cut holes in the headliner, but it looks really nice. Exact color match! It has a compass, exterior thermometer and brighter map lights, a place for your garage door opener, and a cool sunglasses holder. No, it doesn't make my interior look like a minivan.

4) Automatic Temperature Control. I don't think this was ever in a Daytona, just Lebaron. But surprise, all the interior is the same! I got all the pieces and connected them as described in the factory service manual, and it works great. It's nice to have the quick cool-down feature on a day when the sun has warmed the interior to oven temperatures, and the heating is awesome. On a cold day, you get in, no air blows until there's a little bit of heat in the engine, then a rapid heat-up starts. Eventually, it backs off to keep you from sweating and keeps things calm. If you ever need to open your window during winter, it's neat hearing the heat come up to counter the incoming cold air.

5) 89 K-frame and control arms. The K-frames were changed in 1989 to have a real hinge and proper pivot points. This provides more stable handling. In addition, the structure of the K-frame is better designed, it is less likely to crack, which 87's are notorious for. In spite of previously being told that 87 sway-bars don't fit in the 89 K-frame, mine fit perfectly. If you get the K-frame from an automatic car, you will need to weld on a bracket for the bobble strut (see number 7). In 1990, they also went to cast control arms instead of stamped. I got the stamped ones because my logic says if I hit a curb, I'd rather have a bent part so I can get home than a broken one that requires a tow.

6) Front motor mount change. The front motor mount bracket (the piece that attaches to the car, not the motor) has a history of pulling away from the cross-member it is bolted to, especially during "spirited" driving in reverse. I fabricated some heavy steel straps that distribute the load of the fasteners over a larger area, which eliminates this tendency to break. I also replaced the motor mount bushings with the Mopar Performance ones, which are a firmer rubber. This reduces engine movement, always good.

7) Bobble strut. Manual transmission turbo Mopars have a "bobble strut", which is like a shock absorber that restricts engine movement relative to the K-frame. To firm up launches, wrap heavy rubber around the stem of the shaft, then clamp metal over it. You want the strut to compress a small amount, but not as much as the factory allowed. OR, get the currently available MP part listed for a Neon. This is a firmer piece, and will make a big difference. You can also add a spring or even go to a solid mount (most street cars will find a solid bobble strut to be too firm). As with the firmer motor mounts, this dramatically reduces the tendency of front end hop during launches and makes shifts more solid.

8) Roller cam and followers. This reduces top end friction, and I definitely notice an improvement in mileage and power. The oil seems to stay cleaner longer too. The one you want is the 88 TBI 2.2, and you'll find it on junky looking K cars all over the place. Reducing friction in the motor is good, since the same amount of generated power with less internal friction means more power is available to move the car.

9) BOV and D-Valve. These are attached to the pipe that goes between the intercooler and the throttle body. The BOV allows boost pressure to escape when you lift off the throttle, which reduces turbo wear AND keeps pressure up between shifts. The D-Valve is a Flotec 0026-10 sump pump flapper valve that allows your engine to suck air quickly, before the turbo has spooled up. This makes a slight difference in immediate power (i.e. perception of "torque"). I mounted my D-Valve facing downward into the factory air box, behind the air filter. This actually captures a bunch of oil and allows it to drip into the air box, keeping it out of the engine. I've been very impressed with this piece, it seems to give me a LOT more power immediately, and makes it a lot easier to avoid "bog" at launch.

10) A/F Gauge. This is a row of LEDs that connects to your O2 sensor so you can see if you are running rich or lean. Different vehicles will have different requirements, so I can't say exactly what you should expect to see. However, 8 lights will be fine for stock boost, and you may want 9 or even 10 lights for HIGH boost so you know you are running RICH (more fuel cools the engine).